Thursday, 19 November 2009

book revisions

Unfortunately the following errors have occurred. I apologise sincerely for any inconvenience caused. Amendments in bold.

Easy Baby Knits

This book has mistakes in both US and UK Versions, First Edition. The Book has now been reprinted in papaerback with all the following mistakes corrected.


Booties pp 66-67

Largest size basket weave comes out as rib, please correct pattern as folls:

1st row: K3, p2, k2, p2, k1(3), turn. Leave the rem 11(13) sts on a second stitch holder.
2nd row: P1(3), k2, p2, k2, p3, turn.
3rd row: K1, p2, k2, p2, k3(2), p0(2), k0(1), turn.
4th row: P3(1), k2, p2, k2, p1(2), k0(2), p0(1), turn.
Repeat last four rows 2(3) times more, but do not turn on last row.


Cardigan pp 78-9

Materials
3(3,4,4,5) balls are needed of Yarn A, shade 502

Sleeves

You must increase at either end of every increase row. ie:
Beg with knit row, work 4 rows st-st, inc 1 st at either end of next row…..


Baby Bonnet pp 74-75 (this pattern works, but creates a pixie like point. For a more rounded bonnet, please make these adjustments.)

Next row: cast off 72(68:64) sts in moss st, k81(89:97) sts, cast off rem 72(68:64) sts in moss st.
Rejoin yarn to main body of hat
Work 8(9:10)cm in st st……

SHAPE BACK
1st row(RS): *K8(9:10), k2tog, rep from * to last st, k1. 73(81:89) sts
next row and every other row, purl
3rd row: *K7(8:9), k2tog, rep from * to last st, k1. 65(73:81) sts
cont in this way….until 17 sts rem.

Break off yarn, leaving approx 50cm for sewing up. Thread yarn through rem 17 sts and pull tight to make ring.

Finish bonnet as pattern pp 75


Matinee Jacket pp 90-91
Sleeves
cont in moss st inc 1 st at each end of next row and every foll 4th row to 37(43:47)sts
2nd and 3rd sizes only
Cont in moss st, inc 1 st at each end of every 6th row to (47, 51)sts
Length measurements need to be changed throughout, as below:

Smallest size only
UK editions
Back
Change all measurements of 11(15:20)
to 14(26:32)
And all measurements of 20(26:32) to 24(26:32)

Left front
Change all measurements of 11(15:20)
to 14(26:32)
All measurements of 17(23:29)
change to 21(23:29)

And 20(26:32) change to 24(26:32)

Right front
Change all measurements of 11(15:20)
to 14(26:32)

Change measurement for second buttonhole:
From 14(19:24) to 17.5(19:24)
And last buttonhole:
Change 16.5(22.5:28.5) to 20.5(22.5:28.5)

Measurements of 17(23:29)
Need to change to 21(23:29)

And 20(26:32) change to 24(26:32)

US editions


Back
Change measurements of 4.5(6:8)in to 5.5(6:8)in

Final length change from 8(10.25:12.75)in to 9.5(10.25:12.75)in

left front

change 4.5(6:8)in to 5.5(6:8)in
up to shape neck 8.25(9:11.5)
final length after completing neck change from 8(10.25:10.75)in to 9.5(10.25:12.75)in

right front
up to shape yoke change from 4.5(6:8)in to 5.5(6:8)in
under change to seed st for 2nd buttonhole 6.75(7.5:9.5)
under seed st for 3rd buttonhole 8(8.75:11.25)
length to shape neck 8.25(9:11.5)
After completing front 9.5(10.25.12.75)



Yarn Palette Errata

Henna Sun Hat pp 84-87

Materials
The hat only uses House of Hemp Expressions, not Alchemy Silken Straw (although this would be a nice alternative, it was used in an original version of the hat)
Therefore the pattern should read:
Yarn A: 2 x shade Yippi
Yarn B: 1 x shade Dah

48 comments:

Barbara said...

Hi, I am currently knitting the ribbed cardigan with pockets from Easy Kids Knits. I am quite new to knitting so probably I have not understood the instructions. However I have completed the back and am now onto the armhole shaping. For the back I cast on 75 stiches, when I reached the armhole shaping I cast off 5 stiches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 1 stitch at the end of next 4 rows and following 2 alternative rows. However I have been left with 59 stiches rather then 53 stitches as it says in the book. Is this a mistake in the book or is it my mistake? Thanks for your time....

claire montgomerie said...

Hi Barbara,
sorry for the confusion here, but the instruction is at each end, so after the first instruction, where you cast off 5sts at the beg of 2 rows, you need to cast off a stitch at each end of every decrease row-one at the beg and one at the end. therefore 1 stitch at each end of next 4 rows will be a total of 8 decreased, and then at either end of foll 2 rows will be a total of 4 decreased.
hope this makes sense.
good luck with the rest of the pattern, let me know if you have any further queries.
happy knitting!

Barbara said...

Hi Claire, that does make sense. I have been very silly and I decreased one stitch at one end only of the four rows, rather then at each end. Is it something that can be corrected (I can pop to Loop's next SOS to be shown) or should I start again? Thanks for your help. I am determined to finish the pattern! I love your designs by the way.....

claire montgomerie said...

Barbara,
ideally you would unpick those rows and reknit them so that the sleeve head fits into the underarm. I am working at loop on friday and sat and next friday if you can bring them in then and need some help with it. Or bring them to the next sos.
I am sure it will come out fine!
x

Mishibear said...

Hi Claire,
Really like the design of the patterns in Easy Baby knits. I've been making the T-side strap booties and have noted that the basket weave pattern to my reading is off for the larger size (maybe the smaller size too). Following it will give you big stripes vs a weave (at least for the US printing and the way I read the pattern). Also, I found the strap instructions a bit confusing so ended up making it up as I went along, which was not so pretty a result as the photos in the book. Do you have any updated instructions for this (I noted this was also a complaint for another knitter reviewing your book on amazon.com). One suggestion I have for this pattern is to also increase the width of the link connecting strap to the boot for the larger size of the boot as I think the proportions are a bit off. Thanks for the patterns and your help!

claire montgomerie said...

Hi Mishibear,
so sorry about this pattern, I shall post the corrections here soon, I don't know why I forgot to put it in this post. This mistake has been corrected in the new print run, but of course that does not help you! either check back here for the corrections, or send me an email and I will send you the corrected layout.
thanks for your tips too!
claire.

Allison said...

Please help! I am currently working on the double breasted coat from Easy Baby Knits. I am on the first buttonhole row and I am supposed to end up with 39 sts. I have redone this row twice, and I only end up with 31. I am making the size for the 24-36 month old. Are there errors in this pattern? I cannot figure it out at all.

claire montgomerie said...

Hi Allison,
so sorry fo rthe confusion - technically you do still have 39 sts, as the cast off sts over the two button holes (4 sts in each buttonhole) will be cast on again in the next row - so the amount of sts indicated at the end of the row just refers to the fact that you have decreased one st at the armhole edge, but this is not made clear.
Sorry again, but you are correct - just press on and cast the buttonhole sts back on in the next row - you should then find you have 39 sts.

Elisabeth L said...

Hello,
I have your first book, "Easy Baby Knits, clothes & accessories" and am finding it difficult to match gauge on the "Simple Sweater". I'm using O-Yarn, a blend of organic cotton and merino wool (DK). Have made the sweater once and took it all out because the width of the body is so out of proportion with the size. I've started it again, in the 9-12 mo. size and the width of the back is much wider than 12" - any revisions? I can't find anything on your site.

Thanks,
Lis

claire montgomerie said...

Hi Lis,
sorry you are having trouble with this pattern. Some people have found it comes out a little big, which I think has something to do with me being such a tight knitter. Where I use a 3.5-3.75mm needle for 4ply, normally you should use 3-3.25mm. Usually using a smaller needle corrects this. Have you tried using a smaller needle to obtain the gauge? The yarn you are using is a dk and the yarn used in the book is a 4ply, so this may be where some of your problems are occuring. If you want to use the dk weight, aside from using smaller needles, perhaps try knitting the size smaller?

sorry I could not be more of a help, as I have checked the pattern and if you achieve the correct tension of 27 sts to 4 inches, casting on 83 sts should get you 12 in width (with seam allowance) please let me know if you are still having troubles,
Kind regards
Claire

Angela said...

Hi,

I'm making the knitted dress and the gauge (21 sts and 27 rows in stockinette on size 8 needles) is WAY off...I've had to go down to size 5s...was this supposed to be printed this way?

thanks

claire montgomerie said...

Hi Angela,

By way off, I am assuming that you mean off from your tension achieved with size 5 mm? I am afraid that I knit with a very tight tension, so that is the correct tension that I knitted the dress on and is why tension swatches are so necessary - everyone knits differently.
If you do the calculations for the dress, the tension works out correctly to get the right chest size. The pattern is correct, but one of the things I have learned from doing the book is that I have an abnormally tight tension and unfortunately, unlike yourself, lots of people don't bother with tension swatches, especially if they are beginners and do not understand the importance. So for all patterns I have designed since, I have been knitting with much larger needles.
If you feel that the tension is too tight for you, please try using slightly larger needles, but knit one of the smaller sizes of the dress. It is a little hit and miss as to how big the dress will come out, but will create a looser tension.
Sorry for the confusion with this pattern
Kind regards Claire

Deb - Mom of 3 Girls said...

Hi! I am working on the smock top in Easy Kids Knits and have a question - like Barbara, I'm fairly new to this so the pattern isn't always clear to me. I'm hoping you can help!

In the main body, I understand the basic pattern of knitting in stockinette stitch with the garter stitch border on the edges. I also understand that I'm adding in buttonholes on the one side every 10th row and doing the decrease row every 6th row.

What is unclear (at least so far) is since I'm decreasing by 4 stitches every time I knit the decrease row, the number of stitches on my needles obviously changes. The decrease row pattern is for the original number of stitches (141 since I'm knitting the smallest size), but doesn't appear to tell me how to modify that row once I have fewer stitches on the needle.

I'm up to the second time of knitting the decrease row and got to the end of that row (k 17) but don't have 17 stitches left...

I'm not sure if I'm missing something or if something was left out of the pattern. Can you help? Thank you - I love this top and can't wait to finish it for my daughter! :)

Anonymous said...

Hi, Claire - I'm a relatively new knitter and am working through the matinee jacket for my daughter's arrival. I noticed that the paperback (US version) actually did *not* appear to have some of the corrections mentioned on your site (nearly resulting in some serious hair-pulling on my part!). Also, I was trying to mark the corrections in my book, but the book doesn't differentiate between the 1st, 2nd, & 3rd buttonholes... in fact, my pattern only specifies 2 buttonholes. Can you shed some light? It's a beautiful pattern & I was hoping my little one would have something special to wear in her first days. Thank you! KBG

claire montgomerie said...

Hi Deb, so sorry for the delay, I know it must be frustrating, nobody has alerted me to this mistake before, but for beginners, I should have added markers into the first decrease round, which would help you. You always need to knit the first and last 17 sts of every round without any decreases in and also the middle 35, here is a few ways to write it:
1st dec row:K17(18:20:21:22) pm, k2tog, k34(36:39:41:43), sl1, k1, psso, pm k35(37:39:41:43), pm, k2tog, k34(36:39:41:43), sl1, k1, psso, pm, k17(18:20:21:22) 141(149:161:169:177)sts
next and every other dec row: work to first marker, sl marker, k2tog, work to two sts before next marker, sl1, k1, psso, slip marker, work to next marker, slip marker, k2tog, work to two sts before next marker, sl1, k1, psso, slip marker, knit to end 137(145:157:165:173)sts
or, you could say, knit first 17 sts, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before middle 35 sts, sl1, k1, psso, k35, k2tog, knit to last 19 sts, sl1, k1,psso.

PLease let me know if this helps you any,

Kind regards and happy knitting,
claire

claire montgomerie said...

Hi there to the person knitting the matinee jacket. I need some more info to check your mistake. To my knowledge, none of the editions mention the numbers of the buttonholes, I just numbered them in the revisions to help readers correct the pattern. the first buttonhole is the lowest - it is in the 'shape yoke' section of the right front, the second and third buttonholes are in the 'change to moss stitch pattern' section of the right front.
If this does not help, please email me clairemontgomerie@hotmail.com with the edition (was it printed in 2007 or 2010?) and perhaps even scan in the pattern so I can see what you mean, as I do not have enough info to work it out from your comment. Many thanks,
Claire

Anonymous said...

I am now at the strap portion of the Side Strap Bootie, I have completed the 7 short rows, and then the nest three rows (the last being the button hole row. But when I look from the back of the bootie, the short strap of the booties starts at a lower point then the longer side of the strap. I followed your directions exactly. Please help. Thanks.

claire montgomerie said...

Hi anonymous - is this Kathy? I think I have just emailed you with the reply, but just in case, the way that knitting works when increasing many stitches on either side of a piece means that you can only physically increase on the beginning of one row at a time, meaning that there will be a very slight difference in where the bootie straps start at either side, but it should not be too noticable. Hope this helps,
Claire

jenny said...

Hi Claire, I am up to seaming my "Swing Cardigan" from Easy Kids Knits. I have tried seaming the underarms which are the continuation of the raglan shaping but just cannot get a neat finish to match the raglan shaping. I'm not an experienced knitter and I was wondering if you could tell me which seaming method would be best for this area. Otherwise, I love the look of this cardigan, it was easy to follow and I thought it was a clever pattern! I really want one for myself!!! I am so happy to be able to get help directly from you. Thanks for your time.

claire montgomerie said...

HI there Jenny,

so glad you like this pattern, I must admit it is my favourite! I shall have to get round to doing and adult version, I have already bought yarn to make an adult version of my woven style coat from Easy Baby Knits, but still haven't got round to adjusting the pattern!

So, with the seaming, I always use a mattress stitch where possible, which is explained in the book. Hopefully, the decreasing being a few stitches in from the edges will help create a neat seam, and with mattress st you always work from the right side, helping you keep it tidy. It is a bit fiddly because of the raglan join, but I just took less and less of seam the nearer the join I got. I hope this helps! Please let me know if not
c x

jenny said...

Hi Claire, Thanks for the super fast reply. I'll try the mattress stitch again. Do you think I should start the seaming from the raglan shaping or from the underarm to end at the raglan shaping? Jenny

claire montgomerie said...

jenny, I started from the raglan to the underarm - then if there are any little messy bits, hopefully they will be under the arm where no-one will notice them!!!
good luck

Siouxsie said...

Hi Claire, I am knitting the swing Cardigan also from your easy kids knits and it is the first one I have ever attempted! I have reached the yoke and am confused with the slip marker K1 sl1 k1 psso, do I need to psso for the marker AND the slipped stitch? I tried just psso for the second slipped stitch & got down to 109 stiches remaining but was left with long loops (the slipped marker stitches) that were unattractive & did not appear in any of the photos so I unravelled all the work........please help!

claire montgomerie said...

Hi Siouxsie,
the markers are just there to mark the place where you are shaping on each row. When you slip them, you are just doing that to get them out of the way so you can knit the next stitches. I am not quite sure what your markers are, as you should not be able to pass them over - they should either be plastic/metal loop markers or little loops of a contrast yarn. the important instruction here is the decrease: sl 1, k1, psso you are passing the slipped stitch over the k1 - the marker is not a stitch, it is a marker, so you cannot slip it.
please let me know if you still need help, you can email me
clairemontgomerie@hotmail.com

jenny said...

hi claire, thanks for the advice, i'll try it your way! jenny

siouxsie said...

Thank you, I feel like such a wally! After re-reading I have realised that I was using the wrong type of stich marker ( a lockable one on the actual stitch) & have realised that they need to be the sort you slide along the needle!!!! Steep learning curve. Many thanks for your quick response. I love the cardigan so far & hope to complete it soon.

claire montgomerie said...

Siouxsie, easily done!! so glad you like the pattern, let me know if you have any other problems,
claire

Caro said...

Hi there. I am in the midst of knitting the wrap top from Easy Baby Knits and it is shaping up nicely. I am pausing to be sure that I am interpreting the instructions correctly in a certain spot:
I have just begun the section Right Front and the instructions say to "increase 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row inside the k3 border".... Does this mean that I increase on the purl row too? I have never increased while purling, so I want to be sure that I am supposed to be doing this. Any preferred method you can recommend would help too.
Thanks so much, love the book!
Caroline

claire montgomerie said...

Hi Caroline,
as the increase is done just within the 3 st garter border, you can increase knitwise each time
however, there are some clear pictures here:
http://www.stitchdiva.com/custom.aspx?id=108
of how to increase purlwise.
so glad you like the book!
thanks and happy knitting!
Claire

Caro said...

Hi Claire, thank you for your reply regarding the wrap top. I am happy that I can work my increases in knit! So, can you explain exactly on which stitch to perform the increases? For instance, the middle stitch of the garter edge, or on the 3rd stitch (away from neck edge)? Hope my question makes sense!
Thanks for getting back to me.
Caroline

claire montgomerie said...

I think I did it on the 3rd one in- last st of the garter for neatness!
Oh, it seems like an age ago now, it was a really hot summer and I knit this wrap top in the park in the blazing heat as it was too hot in my flat for knitting!
let me know if you need any more help
happy knitting!

Anonymous said...

Hi Claire,

I'm knitting the simple bootees on page 62 of Easy Baby Knits. I'm on the divide for instep section, and I've followed the instructions for the first 3 rows. I now have 18 stitches on needles at either end not being worked, and 12 stitches being worked in the middle. The next instruction is to repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows 3 times, but this doesn't make sense - the 2nd row is 15 stitches!

Please advise. Thanks

claire montgomerie said...

hello, so sorry for the delay in replying
You need to keep working over the stitches you originally had not worked - the k2tog will work over the gaps, this creates the 3d fabric - hope this makes sense, email me if not and I shall explain in more detail

juneinjanuary said...

Hi,

I am working on the matinee jacket in the 6-12 month size and I'm having trouble with measurement. I currently have only 45 stitches (I am supposed to keep increasing to 53, which would add 48 stitches or 4+ MORE inches!) and the sleeve is already nearly 7 inches. My gauge is correct for the pattern, and I did the math for what is required for the sleeves and according to what the gauge is set to, it really doesn't seem like you could increase every 4th stitch and not have the sleeve be way too long.

Regardless, clearly I have invested a lot of time into knitting this and at this point I just want to find some way to make it work. I would be happy to (well, not *happy* but...) tear out the sleeve and re-do it if you have a formula that would work better. OR should I simply bind off when the length measures 7 inches even if I only have 47 stitches??

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Erica

claire montgomerie said...

Hi Erica - are you increasing one stitch at both end of the row or just at one end?
I cannot see anything else that would cause you such a problem. the instruction is to increase at both ends - let me know if this is not it!
Claire

Anonymous said...

Hi,
I've made several items in your book and am having problems with the t-bar bootees. I saw the clarification on the basketweave for the large size bootees, but I don't understand the instructions after I pick up 10sts across the back of the shoe. I've ripped it out over 7 times now and just can't figure it out. Please help me. I'd really like to finish these bootees.

Thanks you in advance.

ckim

claire montgomerie said...

hello, sorry you are having problems, I may need some more info on what problems you are having with the back part - basically, you are working straight for 7 rows, then casting on stitches on either side of them to make the long straps that go round the ankle.
please send me an email - contact at the top of the page and I can fill you in more.

thanks!
C

Anonymous said...

Hi all

I'm knitting the smallest size of the matinee jacket and think I have a newer edition which has the correct numbers of stitches up to the bit where I need to shape the yoke. I have 51 stitches after doing this but then seem to need 63 to shape the neck. Does anyone know the best way to deal with this?

New to knitting!
Holly

Lindsey said...

Hi there,
I am working on the double-breasted coat from Easy Baby Knits (LOVE this book and have been recommending it left and right... and believe it or not, since I started writing this comment I've received a text from a friend thanking me for the booties/scratch mitts I made for her little one last week!) and the sleeves are giving me trouble. After increasing (one st at the start and one st at the end of Row 1 and each subsequent Row 1 of the woven pattern) and following the given pattern for those 4 rows, the pattern looks reversed (P where it should be K and vice-versa). After adding stitches, should I switch a Row 3 for a Row 4 (and vice versa)? Would that make it right so the pattern continues as I increase? Thanks in advance for your help - I've taken this apart and done it several times, to no avail.

claire montgomerie said...

Hi Holly, am a little confused as to where you are having trouble - the smallest size will have 51 stitches after the yoke shaping, the second size will need 63, there is nowhere I can see on the back that you need 63 for your size. You may have misread the section, so you should be fine on the 51 - please let me know if you are still having troubles - you can email me using the contact at the top of the page
Claire

claire montgomerie said...

Hi Lindsey
thanks so much for your comments :)

the easiest way to ensure that you continue working in pattern is to follow the stitches that are directly below the one you are working once you have knitted in the pattern for a bit and so understand how it works. this may seem like gobbledegook for a beginner! Depending on how many stitches you have increased at the beginning of the row, you will need to interchange between rows 3 and 4 to keep the pattern correct, it is very hard to explain without showing you, but you must have two rows of garter stitch, followed by two rows of rib, alternating. Please let me know if this is as clear as mud!!! you can email me if you are still having troubles
Claire

Marta said...

Hello Claire,

4 years ago I bought your book "easy knits bab" (first published in Great Britain in 2007).

I'm currently doing the coat of page 93. I started by making the "front left" and I am now doing the "Right front" (page 95), but ismy work is wrong and I don't understand.

For example "right front" never appears the "psso" Also in the "Shape Raglan", when I do the "first buttonhole row" Claire says to "cast off 4" two times, and once K2tog, saying they are 39 sts, because I did not realize the previous line had 40 sts!? (page 95)

Can you help me,

claire montgomerie said...

Hi Marta
not quite sure I understand where you are going wrong, please email me at the address at the top of the page and I shall do my best to help you sort this, sorry you are having problems.
Claire x

Lindsey Fairweather said...

Hi Claire,

Thanks so much for the help with the jacket -- sorted out now, and the result was beautiful! My friend is delighted and can't wait for her baby to grow into the jacket (I made a large size, so it'll fit little Stella next winter).

Now I am working on the t-bar booties from Easy Baby Knits for my own little one (on the way!)... alas, the straps have me stumped. Everything's fine with the pick up and knit bits at the front and back, but when I start to cast on more stitches everything goes wrong and I wind up confused - e.g. when it says "Knit to end," I'm utterly baffled since I've just cast on and have no more stitches to knit in that row (do you mean turn and knit across everything? Also, I assume when it says "cast on" that I do this on the needle I'm currently working with... right?). I've tried several times to get these straps and am just at a loss. Could you please help? Thanks in advance!

claire montgomerie said...

eeek sorry lindsey, i have only just seen this.
you do need to break off the yarn from the three central sts, and rejoin it to the back of the shoe.
Just to simplify the following instructions, you begin by working just over the back (heel) of the booties, then cast on some stitches, then knit over the middle t-bar section, then cast on some more stitches. You then knit backwards and forwards over the whole of the work, new cast on stitches and original sections.

For left bootie, you need to turn, then cast on the extra 9(10) sts, put the 3 centre stitches onto a needle held in your left hand, kind of turn the cast on stitches you have just knit so that you are holding that needle in your right hand and can knit across the 3 t bar sts, then turn again and cast on 9(10) sts. do not turn work and work across all sts, both cast on, t bar and back of heel, on the next row, cast on 4(5) sts, you then have all your booties stitches and can work back and forth over these.

work the right bootie the same, but so it is a reflection of the left.

I hope this helps, please let me know if it doesn't, as I know that it is hard to explain this kind of instruction in words and not in person.

Anonymous said...

Perfect! Thank you so much, Claire. The booties are perfect now, just in time for baby (due in three weeks!). I'll be buying Easy Kids Knits soon :) Please keep making your beautiful books. -Lindsey

Krita said...

Hello - could you let me know if there is an error on the 2009 edition of the sweater with shoulder buttons ? It seems to end too quickly if I follow armhole shaping and neckline shaping - thankd

claire montgomerie said...

Hi Krita
Sorry you are having problems, I am assuming you mean the sweater from Easy Baby Knits - I am not aware of any errata but will take a look - which size are you knitting?
Claire